A Weekend in Provence: Arles, Les Baux, Avignon
Arles. The train pulls out at 8:15 on a clear, beautiful
morning. I'm very comfortable in 15/51, after someone shows me the codes at
the station. The sea flashes by on the right, Alps on the left (yes, I'm
sitting backwards). I surround myself in white light, safety, peace and
joy...then all travelers as well. The temperature is perfect. The ride is
smooth. With a transfer in Marseilles, I arrive at Arles by noon...and within
minutes am lost. The Tourism Office is closed (what???) I find a pharmacie for directions. The
Colusseum is 'fermé' for a private event before the bull fights. An arab guide
sneaks me in with my press pass for "un photo".
I make my way down through the jardin to find I have just
missed the morning parade and fetes, and the huge market is closing up as well.
I take refuge in a church with a fascinating art show, then am lost again,
wandering (hot and tired...and hungry) until I find the bus stop (wanting now
to just get out of dodge). After waiting, a woman tells me I need to go to la
gare for bus 57. There is no way I can walk that far back, but finally a small
shuttle bus arrives and takes me there, free. And just as bus 57 is leaving for
Les Baux. I ride with women from Chicago and Kansas City, grateful for a
translator. They're on a 10-day rush through London and France. I'm exhausted
just listening to them. The driver engages me, tells me I speak really good
French. I hear that several times on this trip.
Les Baux is a jewel, starting with the woman at the
Tourism Office who issues all my press passes and prints out background info
for the historic town and its best attractions. The hotel is just across the street, and
my room is ready. I drop my backpack...and myself for a few moments, but I
haven't eaten yet today, and I'm hungry. It's 3 pm, and the dining is pau until
7, so I walk across the street to Au Porte Mages, where I spend an hour
reviving. The restaurant is a haven of sun and shade, olive trees, and sweet
service. Plat du jour is grilled lamb, with veggies and frites...and a nice
rosé. Afterwards I meander through town, making it up to the top and the
Chateau - the film in the little church, the bulwarks and fortifications, walls
and views. and everywhere the bauxite.
At 8:15 I make my way to the dining room...and end up
with a lovely warm fois gras with salad and pommes et fruits rouge. Then sleep
8 hours!
Carrieres de Lumieres
I didn't know it before, but this show was the reason for
my trip! Stunning images, displayed as never before. Uniquely fabulous, it puts
you into the mind (and heart) of the artists...and into some future world where
art is alive in each of us.
The quarries were dug to extract bauxite and limestone
used to build the castle and the town of Les Baux. Carrieres de Lumieres - Quarries of Lights is
amazing enough, but the show - Incroyable!
"Klimt and Vienna - a century of gold and
colors" showcases 100 years of Viennese painting, with a trip to the heart
of the colorful and bright works by Gustav Klimt, his contemporaries, and those
he inspired.
Total Area of projections: 7000 m²
Height of projections: 6-14 meters
Running time: 35 minutes
Technical equipment: 100 projectors, 26 speakers ...
Number of projected pictures: 3000
" This show is a work on emotion, to feel what the
artist in question wanted to convey with his work. This is why music is so
important; the goal is that all the
senses are awakened to capture that emotion. My interest is to give the public
the opportunity to see art differently."
Gianfranco Iannuzzi
Culturespaces, producer of the show
"Our mission is to help public institutions to stage
their heritage and develop their cultural and touristic attraction. It is also
to democratize access to culture and for
our children to discover our history and civilization in remarkable
cultural sites." Bruno Monnier,
CEO
Vive la France!
I enjoy a lovely breakfast at Le Reine Jeanne, looking out over the baux landscapes, then walk to the cave for the show (see above)...and back to check out. E100 for the room, dinner, and breakfast!
Avignon. Catching the 11 am bus, I wind through little back roads with farmhouses,
greenhouses, vineyards, orchards, olive groves. This must be the bread basket
of France, Europe even. The bus driver navigates his Mercedes Benz and rocks
some great American music from Van Morrison to Michael Jackson as we pass
rivers and irrigation systems, fields of broccoli and cabbage, apricot
orchards, cherries (still!).
The villages each have a 'Credit Agricole' bank...and
Roman ruins - a delightful trip, arriving after an hour in Avignon. Entering
the wall, I'm just a couple of blocks to another extraordinary Tourism Office,
where I'm issued press passes for the Pont d'Avignon and the Palais des Papes.
First the Pont, made famous by its memorable song:
Sur le
pont d'Avignon
l'on y danse
l'on y danse
Sur le pont d'Avignon l'on y danse
tout en ron
I climb up to the bridge and explore, shooting pictures
of the bridge, its little church, the Rhone, and views. Then I dance.
After a walk back to the square, I enjoy a salmon grillé,
too tired to deal with the moules. Then I hop a little tourist train as a break
from all the walking...and to get an overview of Avignon. The Palais des Papes
is interesting enough, gothic but claustrophobic and musty, so I don't linger,
despite its long history and interesting art and frescoes. The seat of the
Christian world in the 14th century, more recently recognized as a World
Heritage site, it bears the mark of nine popes who ruled here until Rome took
over.
Fatigue overtakes me, and I plunk down at a small café
for a Stella then call a taxi to shuttle me to the TVG train station, the new
(10-years old) one, outside of town. It's clean and shiny, with good signage,
shops, and restaurants. A trio peddle at a small bike stand to recharge their
phones. Two young men share the free piano. It's a total bummer we don't do
trains (and train stations) like the French! I buy water and a sandwich for the
trip home, which due to the TVG is half the time of the trip up. We're off at
19:40, passing by farms and factories (yes, the French still make things). I
watch the sunset sprawl across a wide expanse of Provence, heading home. Cannes
is the third stop, just two hours later.
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